Central Liverpool: The Commercial Quarter

Liverpool Castle and early history in Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England (1848) Liverpool is not noticed in any of the Roman Itinera, nor does the name occur in the Norman survey; its site was contained within the limits of the West Derbyshire Forest, which was royal demesne, at one time in the possession of Edward the Confessor. After the Conquest it was bestowed by William, together with all the land between the Ribble and Mersey, upon Roger de Poictiers, by whom it was subsequently forfeited. Camden [ca.1586] informs us that the castle was built by Roger de Poictiers, about the year 1089, and that he appointed Vivian de Molines, ancestor of the Earl of Sefton's family, the castellan. In October, 1323, Edward II dated some orders from it; and in April, 1358, Henry, Duke of Lancaster, made it his residence for upwards of a month. It was demolished by order of parliament during the Commonwealth [...]. King John, in the 9th year of his reign, gave to Henry Fitzwarin de Lancaster an estate near Preston, forming part of the possessions of the honour of Lancaster, in exchange for Liverpool; upon which occasion he granted a charter to the place. Henry III, in 1229, made the town a free borough, instituted a guild-merchant, and bestowed additional privileges. Little is known of the state of Liverpool during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries; Leland, writing in 1558, describes it as a paved town, much frequented as a good haven by Irish merchants, and as supplying Manchester with yarn imported from Ireland. From this period, however, till the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth, it appears to have declined. In 1571, the inhabitants petitioned the queen to be relieved from a subsidy imposed on them, and in their petition described it as 'Her Majesty's poor decayed town of Liverpool' [...]. At the time of the civil war, the place was defended for the parliamentarians by Col. Moore, against Prince Rupert, by whom it was besieged; after an obstinate resistance, it surrendered, June 26th, 1644, but it was soon retaken by the parliament. During the rebellion in 1745, Liverpool raised several regiments to oppose the Pretender; and within twelve months after the war with France broke out, in 1778, 120 privateers, carrying in the aggregate 1986 guns and 8754 seamen, were equipped here.
The origins of Liverpool in the Victoria History of the County of Lancaster (1907) Next to nothing is known of Liverpool before the creation of the borough in 1207. In Domesday it is almost certainly one of the six unnamed berewicks attached to the manor of West Derby. What degree of dependence upon the parent manor was involved in the berewick period cannot be determined; but probably the Liverpool tenants did suit at the West Derby halmote, as the tenants of the other berewicks long continued to do. At some date between 1166 and 1189 Liverpool was granted by Henry II to Warine de Lancaster, along with other lands, and this may have involved separation from West Derby and the institution of a distinct court. [...] On 23 August 1207 John reacquired it, giving the township of English Lea near Preston in exchange. Five days later the so-called 'charter' was issued which turned the vill into a borough. [...] Liverpool is distinguished from most other boroughs by the fact that it owes its foundation absolutely to an exercise of the royal will; there is no evidence that the place was a centre of any trade before the date when John fixed upon its sheltered Pool as a convenient place of embarkation for men and supplies from his Lancashire lands for his Irish campaigns. He may have visited the place in February 1206, on the way from Lancaster to Chester; and probably the creation of the borough should be regarded as part of the preparation for the great expedition of 1209. From the earliest date all the streets of the borough were clustered in the form of a double cross on the gently rising ground within the small peninsula: Juggler Street or High Street across the modern Exchange Flags forming the centre from which Castle Street struck off to the south, Oldhall Street to the north, Water Street or Boncke Street and Chapel Street to the west, and Dale Street and Moor Street to the east. All these streets are known to have existed in the 14th century, and no others were added until the 17th.
	The Town Hall Liverpool's neoclassical third town hall was completed in 1754, the work of John Wood the younger. It was gutted by fire in 1795 and reconstructed by James Wyatt, who added the raised drum under the dome (1802) and the columned portico (1811). The building stands at the centre of the mediaeval town at the junction of the original streets: Dale Street, Castle Street and Water Street.
	The Town Hall The aspect from Water Street.
The Town Hall in Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England (1848) The Town Hall, commenced in 1749, and of which the ground-floor was originally designed for an exchange, occupies an elevated situation at the north end of Castle street: the whole of the interior was destroyed by fire in 1795, and was subsequently restored by the corporation upon an improved plan, at an expense of £110,000. It is a stately and magnificent structure in the Grecian style, with four elegant fronts, of which the north forms one side of the Exchange buildings, and the south, which is the principal, comprises the grand entrance: the whole edifice is surrounded with a rustic basement, from which rise handsome ranges of Corinthian pillars, supporting an entablature and cornice; between the pillars are tablets, in which the emblems of commerce are finely sculptured in bas-relief. The interior of this noble building contains on the ground-floor a councilroom, apartments for the mayor, committee-rooms, and offices for the town-clerk, treasurer, and other officers of the corporation. The grand staircase leads into a spacious saloon splendidly fitted up, opening on the east and west sides into two magnificently furnished drawing-rooms, and on the north and east sides into two large ball-rooms, also superbly decorated. On the west of the saloon is the banquet-room; the arched ceiling is richly panelled in compartments, and the whole is disposed in the most costly style. The refectory, adjoining the smaller ball-room, is of proportionate elegance. The grand staircase is embellished with a fine statue of Canning by Sir F. Chantrey, and with Hilton's picture of the Crucifixion, painted by him for the corporation.
	The Municipal Buildings Completed in 1868 and designed by John Weightmann and E.R. Robson in a suitably grandiose style for the Liverpool Corporation offices.
	Dale Street The monumental architecture of Dale Street between the Royal Insurance Building and the Municipal Buildings.
*Dale Street in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** Dale Street was originally called Dele street from the Saxon 'Dele or Dale', a Valley. It was one of the four leading streets of the town, proceeding from the High Cross, which stood on the site of the Exchange. The first mention of Dale street appears in a deed bearing date, 15th April, 3rd of Edward III [1315], in which Cecilia Utting 'in her pure widowhood', gave to Richard de Walton the half of a burgage in the town of Lyverpoll 'in le Dele street'. [...] Dale street has always been a thoroughfare of great importance - perhaps more so than either of the other three original streets, as it constituted the old way, by Ormskirk and Preston, to the north. From its two inns, the 'Golden Lion' and the 'Fleece', issued forth at one time strings of pack-horses, consisting of fifty and sixty quadrupeds laden with goods for the interior, each horse's burthen weighing on an average three cwt.; or they might have been seen returning with produce for consumption or exportation - the drivers herding together for safety on the unprotected roads. [...] Previous to 1757 there was not a single public conveyance out of Liverpool. To reach the metropolis, it was necessary to take horse to Warrington, whence, from the Red Lion, a coach started every Monday and Thursday, arriving in London in three days. The fare was two guineas, one guinea being paid in advance. Fourteen pounds weight of luggage were allowed each passenger. In 1766 there were two coaches to the metropolis, which started from the Golden Fleece, Dale street, on Tuesday and Friday mornings, making the journey in two days in summer, and three in winter. [...] The principal inns in Dale street at that time [...] were 'The Golden Lion', 'The Fleece', 'The Angel and Crown', 'The Bull and Punch Bowl', 'The Wool Pack', and the 'Red Lion. All these houses have disappeared. The George, in Dale street, was another favourite Inn, which stood on the site of Rigby's Buildings, where the beauty of the barmaids, at all times, proved a great attraction to the 'snobs' of the time. Dale street has in it many beautiful buildings, such as the Temple, the Queen Insurance Buildings, the offices of the Liverpool Fire and Life, the Royal Bank Buildings, the North Western Bank, Rigby's Buildings, and the Royal Insurance Offices. Doubtless, in the course of time, many of the shops and smaller properties will be converted into spacious and handsome offices, to embellish and enrich the architecture of the great Liverpool thoroughfare, Dale street.
	North John Street The end of North John Street is dominated by the Royal Insurance Building with its golden dome 110 ft (34 m) above the street marking the start of the city's commercial area. The building was designed by James F. Doyle and completed in 1903.
	Water Street The view down Water Street is as imposing as some in New York, if a little compressed in the vertical dimension. Water Street is one of the original mediaeval streets and was known as Bank Street up to the 16th century. The Royal Liver Building, of course, is at the end.
	Castle Street
	Eberle Street Eberle Street is a narrow crack that, with its parallel neighbours Leather Lane and Hackins Hey, evokes the city's mediaeval past. The Royal Insurance Building towers above in the background.
*Water Street in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** Water Street was originally called 'Bonke street', that is 'Bank street'. Bonke street is first mentioned in a deed bearing date of 'Sunday after the Feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross, in the 43rd year of the reign of Edward III'. [1355] wherein 'Adam le Clerk, of Leverpull, grants to William, the son of Adam, of Leverpull, a piece of land 20 feet by 17, in Bonke street, between the tenements of St. Nicholas (the chapel), and that of John de Stanley [Liverpool Tower], or Staney'. Water street is one of the oldest of the old streets of the town, being the main approach to it from the river, on the shore of which, at its foot, landed the travellers from the south and west, by way of Chester. The ferry-boats in the time of Edward II. were owned by the monks of Birkhed, (Byrkheid or Byrkheved, as it was then written). [...] The Town-hall stood in Water street previous to the erection of the present edifice. Behind it were the butchers' shambles and passages leading therefrom. Pemberton's alley opened upon Tithebarn street. Clayton's alley had its entrance from Water street. These alleys consisted of wretched houses, of which more than one traveller, recording his experience of Liverpool, complains. High street was then to the east of the Town-hall, and was the junction between Castle street and Tithebarn street, and lineable with Oldhall street. High street was formerly called Jugglar street. The first mention of it was in a deed dated 18th August, 16th Henry VI [1437], in which John Gregory, chaplain, gives, to William Gaythread, of Leverpull, merchant, a piece of ground near the Cross, below Dale street and Jugglar street. [...] The present magnificent suites of offices in Water street are the marvel and admiration of all strangers. Emanating from the taste and skill of a Picton, and other well-known architects, Liverpool is much indebted to these eminent men for truly noble and beautiful commercial buildings, where elegance of design is mingled with convenience and comfort.
	Rigby's Rigby's on Dale Street is a superbly characterful old pub, dating from 1726 when it included the George Hotel. It is named after Thomas Rigby (1815-86), a wine and spirit wholesaler who ended up owning a number of pubs and becoming an alderman. He modified the frontage to the upper floors in 1865 and further refurbishment was undertaken in 1922.
	Rigby's The interior of Rigby's, though now opened up into three large rooms, oozes old-world charm. The rear room is known as the Nelson Room, as the old sea dog allegedly quenched his thirst here regularly in the 1790s.
	Exchange Station Buildings This imposing block by Henry Shelmerdine on Tithebarn Street was completed in 1888 as the terminus of the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway and later became that of the electric train line to Southport (now Merseyrail). This was closed in 1977, becoming redundant following the construction of Liverpool's underground railway system. The building once provided a hotel and railway offices with shops at street level. The first station here opened in 1850.
	The Lion Tavern The mid-19th century Lion Tavern on Tithebarn Street has one of the finest Victorian pub interiors in Liverpool, recently superbly restored. There is a small front bar serving two cosy rear rooms (one with an ornate glass cupola) via hatches. Everywhere there is superb woodwork and tiling dating from ca. 1900.
	The Hole in the Wall In the narrow mediaeval street of Hackin's Hey (named after John Hacking, a smallholder who originally rented the land) is the Hole in the Wall, which lays claim to being Liverpool's oldest extant pub. The building dates from 1706, when it was a Quaker meeting house. Later it was a whisky merchants and by 1726 was probably a pub. The interior retains the period character with tiny rooms, wood panelling and stained glass. An impressive polished brass fireplace proclaims the pub's antiquity. Take a step back in time.
*Chapel Street in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** The first mention of Chapel street is found in a mortgage dated the Wednesday before the feast of St. Mary Magdalen, in the forty-third year of Edward III [1355], in which John de Formeby confirms, in mortgage to John Amoryson, of Wygan, the half of a burgage, with its appurtenances, in the town of Lyverpool, lying in 'le Chapel strete'. [...] In the reign of Elizabeth, at the top of the street was the White Cross Market. The Cross stood opposite the end of Old Hall street. It was a stone cross. Round the base and pedestal of the pillar were five stone steps. The market people clustered round the cross, amongst whom the potato growers of Formby were conspicuous, their potatoes being at that time of such high repute that they were even sent to a distance as presents to friends.
	The White Star Line Building The White Star Line Office building by Norman Shaw on James Street was completed in 1898. According to the Architectural Review, it made 'everything around it look little and mean' and it still dominant on this corner position. The bands of red brick and Portland stone have earned it the nickname the Streaky Bacon Building.
	Tower Buildings Tower Buildings, by W. Aubrey Thomas, were completed in 1910 and named after Sir John Stanley's house that was fortified in 1406 and stood here until it was demolished in 1819. The present building has three towers with vague suggestions of turrets.
*The Tower of Liverpool in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** The passing away of the Tower of Liverpool, in 1820, severed almost the last of the very few links that held together the modern days with the old days. The Tower of Liverpool stood at the bottom of Water street. [...] In 1252 it was a dwelling-place only, about which date it was supposed to have been erected. In 1360 it is recorded as being the property of Sir Thomas Lathom, of Lathom, with other 'burgage houses and lands'. In 1404, in the reign of Henry IV, Sir John Stanley, into whose possession the Tower had passed, made an application to be allowed 'to fortify his house at Leverpull'. In 1413, it is said to have been rebuilt by 'John the Irischman'. From that period it became a place of strength, and so it continued for three hundred years. [...] During the siege of Liverpool, in 1644, the Tower was used as the head-quarters of the Parliamentarians. Although from its position it was of no use to repel the onslaught on the town, it was necessarily of some importance. After the surrender of the town, Prince Rupert divided his forces between the Castle and the Tower, in both of which, and St. Nicholas' Church, he imprisoned the principal inhabitants and others found in arms against him. [...] In 1737 the Tower passed out of the hands of the Stanleys and became the property of the Liverpool Corporation, by whom it was converted into a gaol. It must have been a very picturesque object from the river. Including its gardens, it occupied an area of 3,700 square yards. The Tower was constructed of red sandstone, in the Herman style.
	The Church of Our Lady and St. Nicholas This is Liverpool Parish Church, commonly known as the Sailors' Church. There has been a church near here for over 750 years, originally the chapel of St. Mary del Quay, but the area was then part of the parish of Walton (Liverpool parish dates from 1699). The first church of St. Nicholas (the patron saint of mariners), located on the present site, dated from 1361. A print from the late 17th Century shows a modest building with a square tower and spirelet, but a full spire had been added by 1747. The body of the church was rebuilt in the later 18th century and new bells installed in the tower. Tragically, the tower collapsed onto the congregation one Sunday morning in 1810 resulting in 25 deaths and as many serious injuries. The present tower (with its conspicuous weathervane in the form of a sailing ship) was completed in 1815 and, unlike the remainder of the church, escaped bombing during World War II. The church was finally reconstructed by 1952.
*St. Nicholas's in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** Although not mentioned in 'Domesday Book', the original chapel of 'St. Nicholas and Our Lady' was, without doubt, in existence, and had been so long before that book was compiled. The first mention we find of it was at the date of 1050. For some centuries the chapel of 'St. Nicholas' - the patron saint of sailors - was the chapel of Ease to Walton, and it was not severed from it until 1699, when Liverpool was constituted a separate parish. In 1360 the chapel was taken down and a larger building erected. In 1361 the Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield issued a licence to bury the dead in the chapel cemetery, to save them being taken to Walton. [...] In 1725 a new peal of bells was put up, cast at Bristol. They arrived by sea, the old bells being sent thither by the same route. [...] In 1749 the churchyard was enlarged westward. The new ground is much lower than the other portion. Hereon, in 1759, a battery of fourteen 18-pounders was raised, in expectation of Mons. Thurot's visiting the port. In 1765 a new organ was put up in the church, the old one being given to the Blue Coat School. In 1810 the steeple of this church fell, by which calamity twenty-four of the children of the Moorfields School, who were proceeding up the middle aisle, were killed, as were also three adults who were seated iu their pews preparatory to the commencement of the service. The Rev. Hector Roughsedge, and the curate, Rev. R. L. Pugh, were entering the church at the time the steeple fell, and, had it not been that they were drawn back by a bystander, they would have been overwhelmed with the rest. The accident arose from the perversity of the ringers, who 'would set the bells going', although they were warned that the belfry and steeple were unsafe. The ringers being on the ground floor, successfully made their exeunt, having been warned of the coming catastrophe by the falling of a large stone on one of the bells, which prevented its swing. The dead children were laid out in a row in the churchyard, to be picked out by their parents. It is said to have been a harrowing sight by those now living who witnessed the scene.