Central Liverpool: The Georgian Quarter, University Area and Chinatown

	The Philharmonic Dining Rooms Designed by Walter Thomas (who also designed the similarly grand Vines on Lime Street) for Robert Cain's brewery, the Philharmonic, opposite the Philharmonic Hall on Hope Street, was completed in 1900 and is now probably Liverpool's most famous pub. The exterior (recently restored) is a kind of Scottish castle fantasy with magnificent art nouveau wrought iron gates. Inside, there is loving attention to detail with ornate plasterwork, stained glass windows, glazed tiles and mosiac floors, with which the University Schools of Art and Architecture were extensively involved. Accomodation is on the grand scale, the several large rooms lined with dark mahogany panelling and decorated with carving, the work of ship's carpenters who built the lavish interiors of the ocean-going liners of the time. The huge room at the back (the Grand Lounge) was once the billiards room. Perhaps the pub's most celebrated feature is the gents' toilet, an extravaganza in mosaic and marble (ladies may be able to arrange a guided tour at appropriate times by arrangement with the management). With an appropriate conflation of allusions to music and alcohol, two of the rooms are called Brahms and Liszt. One of these has an imitation minstrel gallery, while in the other is this fine stained glass window dedicated to music. The inscription reads 'Music is the universal language of mankind'. I'll drink to that.
	The Philharmonic Dining Rooms
	Ye Cracke A characterful pub and a pub full of characters, at least it used to be when it was the haunt of John Lennon and the Liverpool Poets. Situated on Rice Steet, a narrow lane off Hope Street, it was built in 1852 as the Ruthin Castle, probably named after a ship. It was nicknamed Ye Cracke because of its size, and this had become its official name by 1892. It retains much of its original, if quirky, style, with a tiny front bar and an even tinier snug known as the War Office (apparently because those who wished to mull over the Boer War were banished there). There is unusual art work including a large garish painting of a battle scene done in a primitive style.
	Canning Street A great introduction to Liverpool's elegant Georgian residential area, this is the view along Canning Street (named after the Rt. Hon. George Canning) from Falkner square with the Anglican cathedral rising impressively over the rich merchants' houses of the 1830s. This area is much sought after as a location for film sets for costume dramas, part of Liverpool's burgeoning movie industry. The lower end of Canning Street in particular can on occasion be seen closed off, car free and strewn with horse manure - at least I think they were filming.
	Falkner Square Falkner square is named after Edward Falkner, soldier and Sheriff of Lancashire, who mustered 1000 men in a single hour for the defence of Liverpool in 1797 when a French invasion threatened. He wanted it called Wellington Square. It dates from 1835 and was one of the city's first open public spaces. However, it was unpopular at the time, being regarded as too far out of town (it was nicknamed Falkner's Folly), especially as regards the long uphill hike for horse-drawn vehicles. Nowadays it is a lovely spot with mature plane trees, borders and grassy areas, and a strong similarity to many squares in the posher parts of London.
	Percy Street Percy Street, one of the finest in the Georgian residential area and dating from around 1832, has more of the feel of Edinburgh than of London. The houses, constructed of sandstone, are distinct from those in neighbouring streets and their architect is uncertain. They are now mainly converted to flats, in one of which your humble writer lived for a year or two in the late 1970s. However, my next-door neighbour's house was then in its original form, atmospherically done out in period style - quite something.
	St. Brides Church With the Anglican Cathedral towering over the elegant houses of Percy Street behind. St. Brides dates from 1830 and is regarded by Pevsner as 'the best surviving Neoclassical church in the city'.
	Peter Kavanagh's The current building on Egerton Street, off Catherine Street, dates from the 1870s but was extended into the two adjoining houses in the 1970s. Originally the Liver Inn, I first remember it as the Grapes (it was my local when I lived in nearby Percy St. in the late 1970s). The eponymous Mr. Kavanagh ran the pub for 53 years from 1897 and was responsible for designing the amazing interior, with its carved oak fittings and furniture. The stained glass windows depict Liverpool's shipping and railway connections. The wall paintings (recently restored) by Eric Robertson, dating from 1929, are perhaps the most unusual feature. A must see!
	Abercromby Square Abercromby Square, named after soldier Ralph Abercromby, was completed by about 1830. One side was destroyed during World War II and the University now occupies all of the remaining buildings. The site of Abercromby Square was previously covered with an expanse of water known as the Moss Lake, which was carefully maintained by means of flood gates to serve as a means of cleansing the Old Pool and supplying tanners and dyers with the clean water they needed.
*The Moss Lake in Recollections of Old Liverpool (1863), an anonymous author recalling the mid-18th century* It does not require a man to be very old to remember the pleasant appearance of Moss Lake Fields, with the Moss Lake Brook, or Gutter, as it was called, flowing in their midst. The fields extended from Myrtle Street to Paddington, and from the top of Mount Pleasant or Martindale's-hill, to the rise at Edge-hill. The brook ran parallel with the present Grove Street, rising somewhere about Myrtle Street. [...] Just where Oxford Street is now intersected by Grove Street, the brook opened out into a large pond, which was divided into two by a bridge and road communicating between the meadows on each side. The bridge was of stone of about four feet span, and rose above the meadow level. [...] In winter the Moss Lake Brook usually overflowed and caused a complete inundation. On this being frozen over fine skating was enjoyed for a considerable space. The corporation boundary line was at this side of the brook. [...] Just where Wavertree Lane, as it was called, commences there was once a large reservoir, which extended for some distance towards the Moss Lake Fields, Brownlow-Hill Lane being carried over it.
	The Victoria Building, Liverpool University Designed by Liverpool's own Alfred Waterhouse and completed in 1892, this is the building responsible for the term Red-brick University. It has a certain kinship with Manchester Town Hall, designed by the same architect. The building is prettier on the outside than on the inside, which has always seemed to me to derive its decorative inspiration from the older style of public convenience. It now houses a café and the university's museum and art gallery. It fronts a collection of fine red-brick buildings that contrasts sharply with a lot of rather dull newer stuff. The University College opened in 1882 with 45 students, compared with over 19,000 today. In 1903, it received its charter and became the University of Liverpool. A carved stone block on the Victoria Building records that the college was established 'for the advancement of learning and ennoblement of life'. Well, your humble writer had the honour of contributing his bit, he hopes, as a member of staff here from 1974-1983.
*Walks around Brownlow Hill in Recollections of Old Liverpool (1863), an anonymous author recalling the mid-18th century* Brownlow Hill was so called after Mr. Lawrence Brownlow, a gentleman who held much property thereabout. Brownlow Hill was a very pleasant walk. There were gardens on it, as, also, on Mount Pleasant, then called Martindale's Hill, of which our friend Mr. Roscoe has sung so sweetly. Martindale's Hill was quite a country walk when I was a little boy. There was also a pleasant walk over the Moss Lake Fields to Edge Hill. Where the Eye and Ear Infirmary stands there was a stile and a foot-path to the Moss Lake Brook; across it was a wooden foot bridge. The path afterwards diverged to Smithdown Lane. The path Road also went on to Pembroke Place, along the present course of Crown Street.
	The Chinese Arch, Chinatown This magnificent arch, spanning the entrance to Nelson Street, was designed and made in Shanghai and erected here in 2000 by Chinese craftsmen. Cotton and silk trading directly between Liverpool and Shanghai dates back to 1834 and was the origin of one of the oldest Chinese communities in Europe. Chinese sailors began to settle near the docks in the 1860s. Chinese restaurants, nowadays a major feature of Nelson Street, began to appear after World War I. Much of the original settlement area was destroyed in World War II and the community began to move inland. By the 1970s, Nelson Street had emerged as the focal point of the present Chinatown.
	Dragon Statue in Chinatown
	Nelson Street, Chinatown
	Great George Street Congregational Church The imposing neoclassical former Great George Street Congregational Church of 1840-41 by Joseph Franklin replaced an earlier chapel that was destroyed in a fire.