Central Liverpool: The Georgian Quarter, University Area and Chinatown

	The Philharmonic Dining Rooms Designed by Walter Thomas (who also designed the similarly grand Vines on Lime Street) for Robert Cain's brewery, the Philharmonic, opposite the Philharmonic Hall, was completed in 1900 and is now probably Liverpool's most famous pub. The exterior (recently restored) is a kind of Scottish castle fantasy with magnificent art nouveau wrought iron gates. Inside, there is loving attention to detail with ornate plasterwork, stained glass windows, glazed tiles and mosiac floors, with which the University Schools of Art and Architecture were extensively involved. Accomodation is on the grand scale, the several large rooms lined with dark mahogany panelling and decorated with carving, the work of ship's carpenters who built the lavish interiors of the ocean-going liners of the time. The huge room at the back (the Grand Lounge) was once the billiards room. Perhaps the pub's most celebrated feature is the gents' toilet, an extravaganza in mosaic and marble (ladies may be able to arrange a guided tour at appropriate times by arrangement with the management). With an appropriate conflation of allusions to music and alcohol, two of the rooms are called Brahms and Liszt. One of these has an imitation minstrel gallery, while in the other is this fine stained glass window dedicated to music. The inscription reads 'Music is the universal language of mankind'. I'll drink to that.
	Canning Street A great introduction to Liverpool's elegant Georgian residential area, this is the view along Canning Street (named after the Rt. Hon. George Canning) from Falkner square with the Anglican cathedral rising impressively over the rich merchants' houses of the 1830s. This area is much sought after as a location for film sets for costume dramas, part of Liverpool's burgeoning movie industry. The lower end of Canning Street in particular can on occasion be seen closed off, car free and strewn with horse manure - at least I think they were filming.
	Falkner Square Falkner square is named after Edward Falkner, soldier and Sheriff of Lancashire, who mustered 1000 men in a single hour for the defence of Liverpool in 1797 when a French invasion threatened. He wanted it called Wellington Square. It dates from 1835 and was one of the city's first open public spaces. However, it was unpopular at the time, being regarded as too far out of town (it was nicknamed Falkner's Folly), especially as regards the long uphill hike for horse-drawn vehicles. Nowadays it is a lovely spot with mature plane trees, borders and grassy areas, and a strong similarity to many squares in the posher parts of London.
	Percy Street Percy Street, one of the finest in the Georgian residential area and dating from around 1832, has more of the feel of Edinburgh than of London. The houses, constructed of sandstone, are distinct from those in neighbouring streets and their architect is uncertain. They are now mainly converted to flats, in one of which your humble writer lived for a year or two in the late 1970s. However, my next-door neighbour's house was then in its original form, atmospherically done out in period style - quite something.
	St. Brides Church With the Anglican Cathedral towering over the elegant houses of Percy Street behind. St. Brides dates from 1830 and is regarded by Pevsner as 'the best surviving Neoclassical church in the city'.
	Abercromby Square Abercromby square, named after soldier Ralph Abercromby, was completed by about 1830. One side was destroyed during World War II, where Liverpool University's Senate House now stands. The University now occupies all of the remaining buildings.
	The Victoria Building, Liverpool University Designed by Liverpool's own Alfred Waterhouse and completed in 1892, this is the building responsible for the term Red-brick University. It has a certain kinship with Manchester Town Hall, designed by the same architect. The building is prettier on the outside than on the inside, which has always seemed to me to derive its decorative inspiration from the older style of public convenience. It fronts a collection of fine red-brick buildings that contrasts sharply with a lot of rather dull newer stuff. The University College opened in 1882 with 45 students, compared with over 19,000 today. In 1903, it received its charter and became the University of Liverpool. A carved stone block on the Victoria Building records that the college was established 'for the advancement of learning and ennoblement of life'. Well, your humble writer had the honour of contributing his bit, he hopes, as a member of staff here from 1974-1983.
	The Chinese Arch, Chinatown This magnificent arch, spanning the entrance to Nelson Street, was designed and made in Shanghai and erected here in 2000 by Chinese craftsmen. Cotton and silk trading directly between Liverpool and Shanghai dates back to 1834 and was the origin of one of the oldest Chinese communities in Europe. Chinese sailors began to settle near the docks in the 1860s. Chinese restaurants, nowadays a major feature of Nelson Street, began to appear after World War I. Much of the original settlement area was destroyed in World War II and the community began to move inland. By the 1970s, Nelson Street had emerged as the focal point of the present Chinatown.