Central Liverpool: The Waterfront

Introduction to Liverpool in Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England (1848) This celebrated town has, within the last century, by a progressive increase in extent, population, and commercial importance, obtained the first rank after the metropolis. [...] The town is situated on the east bank of the river Mersey, along which it extends for more than three miles. On its west side are immense ranges of docks, wharfs, and warehouses, in the neighbourhood of which the streets are mostly narrow, and the houses inferior in appearance to those of more recent erection. On the east side, for upwards of a mile, are spacious streets, squares, and crescents of modern houses, built chiefly of brick and roofed with slate, and of which many are elegant mansions. The town is well paved, and is brilliantly lighted with gas [...]. The inhabitants, and the shipping in the docks, are supplied with water from springs at Bootle, about four miles distant, by the company of the Bootle water-works, and from springs in or contiguous to the town, by the company of the Liverpool and Harrington water-works. [...] The air is highly salubrious, and the convenience of sea-bathing is afforded by baths of every description, erected by the corporation; by private establishments of a similar nature; and by numerous machines. Steamboats are constantly plying across the Mersey to and from the Cheshire shore; and every facility for aquatic excursions may be obtained by packets and pleasureboats. A new landing-stage has just been completed, for the use of certain of the ferries, at a cost of about £50,000; it is parallel with George's pier, is 507 feet long, and is connected with the pier by two iron bridges 150 feet in length, which are so constructed as to allow the enormous stage to rise and fall with the tide [this sank recently]. The docks afford delightful promenades, commanding extensive views of the river and of the shipping; and Prince's pier, or Marine parade, is one of the finest marine walks in the kingdom. [...] The public buildings, which are extremely handsome, give an air of grandeur to the town; and its many sources of refined amusement and social intercourse, render it, independently of its mercantile attractions, a desirable place of residence. The environs are pleasant, abounding with interesting scenery, and with seats and villas.
	The Royal Liver Building Probably Liverpool's most famous building, the Royal Liver Building was designed by W. Aubrey Thomas and completed in 1911 for the Royal Liver Friendly Society; it is still its head office. It stands in an imposing position on the waterfront and is unique in design in this country. Structurally it is notable for being one of the first large reinforced concrete buildings in the world. The clocks, 25 ft (7½ m) in diameter, were the largest electrically driven clocks in the UK when installed. There are four altogether, three on the seaward tower and one on the other, facing the city.
	The Liver Bird The Liver Bird is, of course, Liverpool's icon. Its most famous representation is these statues, one perched on each tower of the Royal Liver Building, which were designed by the German Carl Bernard Bartels. He was a London resident, who was treated shamefully by the authorities during the First World War, deported to Germany afterwards and virtually expunged from official records. The bird has its origins in the ancient seal of Liverpool, dating from the time of King John (reigned 1199-1216). This was probably an eagle (of St. John) carrying a planta genista (sprig of broom - the Plantagenet logo), but was not accurately rendered. By the late 17th century, the bird had been reinterpreted as what the Dutch called something like Lever, to make a play on the name of the city. Whatever this was, it was near enough to a cormorant for the latter to be incorporated into the city's arms in 1797, where a further connection with the name of the city was contrived by replacing the sprig of broom with a piece of seaweed called Laver. Furthermore, if more were needed, the cormorant is also a lucky symbol for sailors.
	The Edward VII Statue This majestic bronze equestrian statue of King Edward VII by William Goscombe John is 16 ft (5 m) high and stands in front of the Cunard Building. It was commissioned following the king's death in 1910 and originally intended for outside St. George's Hall. It finally turned up here in 1921.
*Bathing at Liverpool in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** The Liverpool Baths [hence Bath Street] […] were erected originally by Mr. Wright, a boat-builder, about the middle of the last century. They contained hot and cold water baths, while outside was an open area, 33 feet by 30, enclosed in a pallisading, which admitted the sea-water direct, to enable persons to bathe therein in preference to the baths in the interior of the building. In 1794 the Corporation purchased these baths, and greatly improved them. They were swept away in 1817 to make room for the Prince's Dock. […] On the shore were a few fishermen's cottages, where, from a flight of steps leading out of Bath street (which there was lost in the sandhills,) people used to take their plunge, leaving their clothes with little urchins, who made a livelihood by taking charge of them. At that time, and for a great many years later, the shore was all open (beyond the Clarence Dock and the fort,) where people used to bathe from machines, and from the shore also. […] At the close of the last [18th] century, and the beginning of the present, the disgraceful conduct of the ‘dowkers,’ as the bathers were called, was such as to call forth the strenuous interference of the authorities. Men and women might have been seen bathing at one time, indiscriminately, from the north shore, without the least regard for decency, while their acquaintances and strangers, looked on from the strand, with the utmost complacency, at the gambols taking place in the water.
	Stained Glass inside the Royal Liver Building Only the ground floor of the Royal Liver Building is open to the public and much of this is occupied by a café. There are elaborate ceilings and these stained glass windows with a seafaring theme are worth a look.
	Liverpool Waterfront The view of the waterfront from the Mersey Ferry is dominated by the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building, strongly contrasting structures known locally as The Three Graces. The area is commonly known as the Pier Head, named after a stone pier dating from the 1760's that once jutted out into the river opposite St. Nicholas's Church. It is often said (and not just by scousers) to be the most famous waterfront in the world.
Liverpool trade and commerce in Lewis's Topographical Dictionary of England (1848) The most remarkable feature in the history of Liverpool is, the extraordinary rapidity with which it has risen into importance. Among the causes which have produced its elevation to a rank but partially inferior to that of the metropolis, are, its situation on the shore of a noble river which expands into a wide estuary; its proximity to the Irish coast; its central position with respect to the United Kingdom; its intimate connexion with the principal manufacturing districts, and with every part of the kingdom, by rivers, canals, and railroads; and the persevering industry and enterprising spirit of its inhabitants. For the collection of customs, &c., due to the crown, Liverpool was anciently a member of the port of Chester; but, as is evident from records belonging to the corporation, it was an independent port so early as the year 1335, though for some centuries it made but little progress. The commerce may be divided into several distinct branches. The trade with Ireland appears to have been established, or greatly promoted, by the settlement here of a few mercantile families from that country, about the middle of the 16th century; at that time, only 15 vessels, of the aggregate burthen of 259 tons, belonged to the port, whereas Liverpool now imports of Irish produce alone an amount equal in value to several millions annually. Another principal branch is the trade with the United States. The chief article of commerce in respect of that country, is cotton, which indeed may be considered as the staple of the town; Manchester and the other cotton manufacturing districts are supplied from the port with the raw material, and manufactured cotton goods form more than half of the entire exports of Liverpool. [...] The United States also send hither tobacco, rice, dyewares, and numerous other varieties of American produce. The West India trade was one of the earliest which developed the energies of the merchants of the town; next to London, this port engrosses a larger portion of the traffic than any other of our sea-ports, there being an annual import of about 50,000 hogsheads of sugar, 20,000 barrels and bags of coffee, and 10,000 puncheons of rum, all brought from the West Indies to Liverpool. A great traffic is carried on with British America, comprising the colonies of Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, &c.; while the South American states of Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Chili, and Buenos Ayres consign their sugar, cotton, coffee, and tobacco to Liverpool, and receive in return cottons, woollens, linens, and hardware. The trade with the ports of the East Indies and China is on the increase; considerable intercourse is maintained with New South Wales, and with the principal ports in the Baltic, Mediterranean, and Levant Seas, also with Portugal and other parts of Europe. [...] Among other articles of import, may be named tobacco, in respect of which Liverpool ranks next to London, of the 25 ports of the United Kingdom into which tobacco is allowed to be received. The quantity of tea on which duty was paid, at the port, in the year 1847, was not less than 4,578,397lb.
	The Cunard Building The restrained and elegant face of the Three Graces and the last to be completed in 1916 for the Cunard Steamship Company. It was designed largely by Arthur J. Davis as consultant to the local architects firm Willink and Thicknesse. The building was originally used for Cunard's head offices and also for a passenger terminal, first class on the ground floor and the lower classes consigned to the basement with the baggage.
	The Entrance Hall of the Cunard Building The grand marble-lined entrance hall of the Cunard Building is the only publicly accessible area inside.
	The Port of Liverpool Building This was originally the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board Company Building and was completed in 1907. It was designed by Thornley, Briggs and Wolstenholme, but appears to draw upon one of the designs submitted for the Anglican Cathedral in 1902. Constructed in Portland stone and somewhat reminiscent of the Capitol in Washington DC, its extravagance (inside as much as outside) at a total cost £350,000 did not go without criticism even in those more confident times.
	Interior of the Port of Liverpool Building The Port of Liverpool Building has by far the most impressive interior of the Three Graces as far as public spaces go and is a must-see. The octagonal galleried central hall is accessible up to the fourth floor by a broad staircase lined with stained glass windows displaying the arms of British colonies and dominions. Everywhere are staggering amounts of beautiful marble and granite. This is one of the most magnificent non-ecclesiastical interiors that I have ever seen in Britain. If there is one building that epitomises the aspiration and confidence of maritime Liverpool at its peak, this is it.
	George's Dock Ventilation and Control Station This monumental monolith contains offices and the huge extractor fans that ventilate the Birkenhead Road Tunnel. It dates from 1932, the height of Liverpool's infatuation with Art Deco. It and the Three Graces stand on the site of the 1771 George's Dock, drained in 1899 in preparation for the latter. It had to be reconstructed in 1951-2 following war damage.
	The Royal Daffodil The Mersey ferries are as famous a Liverpool sight as the Liver Birds. A ferry service to Seacombe is mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and this route still operates. One was operated from Monks' Ferry by the Benedictine monks of Birkenhead Priory from its establishment in about 1150 until the dissolution of the monasteries in 1536. By the middle of the 19th century, steamers operated to New Brighton (to 1972), Egremont (to 1941), Seacombe, Woodside (still going), Monks' Ferry (to 1878), Tranmere (to 1897), Rock Ferry (to 1939), New Ferry (to 1922) and Eastham (to 1929). The current diesel ferries are the Royal Daffodil (ex Overchurch), Royal Iris (ex Mountwood) and Snowdrop (ex Woodchurch) and date from around 1960.
*The Mersey ferries in The Streets of Liverpool (1869)* by James Stonehouse** Crossing to Cheshire from Liverpool fifty years ago [early 18th century] was a very different expedition to what it is at present. In fact, very few people ever thought of paying the Cestrian regions a visit then, and it was only from necessity that such a voyage was undertaken. In the first place there was but little or no accommodation in the vicinity of the ferries. The ferry houses themselves were little better, and in some cases not so good, as road-side inns. Then the hazards of the weather were too heavy to risk a voyage for mere jaunting purposes. The boats plying were either half-decked or open, and were of not more than from five to six tons burden, with accommodation for 10 to 15 passengers at the utmost. It was quite like a voyage to a foreign land to cross to the opposite shore in those days. There were thousands of the inhabitants of Liverpool who, in all the course of their lives, never put foot in Cheshire. […] To cross the water was a perilous undertaking at that date. Even within thirty years [since 1840] it had its discomforts and horrors, in dirty slow steam-boats, in inconvenient and perilous landing-places, and in uncertain times of departure and arrival. But, even under these adverse circumstances, the passage was made with vast advantages over the former mode of transit. Until the introduction of steam, in 1815, the cost of the passage depended upon any bargain made with a boatman, who would get all he could, from a penny a piece from a lot of schoolboys, to half a- overeign from a green and credulous passenger. Tales are told of people passing half the night on the water striving to make the pierhead, ‘The Old Dock Gut,’ ‘The Potteries,’ ‘Knott's Hole,’ ‘The Dingle,’ or anywhere, in fact, and felt at length grateful to land amidst rain, wind, and darkness, by the calm waters of Garston Creek, although a long walk of six miles was entailed. A gradual and vast improvement has taken place of late years in the ferry traffic. The first steamboats were small vessels with one mast, having a square sail. The paddles were of limited size, and the funnel slender and tall. In the Mercury of 14th March, 1816, on the application of steam to the Tranmere boats, a correspondent remarks that it is equivalent to ‘bridging over the Mersey.’ In 1770 there were only five ferries - namely, at Carlton or Eastham, the Rock, Tranmere, Woodside, and Seacombe. Previous to 1800 there was a long wooden pier-running out into the river to the south of the Old Dock entrance. In adverse weather the passage boats ran alongside of this pier, but it was a very dangerous landing, having no protecting railings. In the beginning of the last [18th] century, the ferry-boats ran to the shore opposite St. Nicholas's Church and the bottom of Water-street. Then people had to scramble up to land through the shingle, ooze, and dirt, at low water, or be carried on men's shoulders, or by stepping along a rickety moveable foot platform at the time of the flood. In an open boat, in rough weather, it may be imagined what sort of a voyage half-a-dozen people would endure, most of them proving disagreeable to their fellow-passengers, as well as to themselves, suffering from that aquatic complaint which may be termed ‘the quarcks.’ Few persons thought of staying in Cheshire until evening or night, for the uncertainty of the weather made the passage, if not perilous, at any rate full of terrors to landsmen. At Woodside almost the only dwelling was the ferry-house. […] The landing place was a timber and stone causeway, which ran out at some distance into the river, at all times being wet, slimy, slippery, and dangerous, from its exposed situation and unprotected sides. Reader of ‘The Streets,’ step towards the south end of the George's Landing Stage, and look steadfastly at the river wall before you. Do you see under, or in front of the clock-tower of the baths, a steep, narrow set of steps, and do you see another set or flight of narrow steps at the end of the river wall adjoining the Duke's Dock? Well, at one time those steps were the only modes of landing from, or getting on board of, the river steamers, and by those steps had the young and old, the lame, and the infirm, and the lazy, to descend or climb in boisterous or calm weather. In the former, when the old ferry tub ran up, frantically bumping herself against the wall, the unhappy passenger had to watch his or her opportunity to jump on shore or on board, as the case might be, on the rising or falling of the boat. Unless a person was uncommonly active, the chances were that a wave overtook him, and gave his legs a taste of the ‘briny.’ […] Alongside that wall did the public, my dear madam, arrive on terra flrma; and very glad you may be assured, people were when they found themselves safe under the baths piazza, waiting, may be, for some other members of their party to land, or until one of them, who had fortunately been amongst the first to get on shore, had gone up to Castle-street for a car! No handy omnibuses were there till 9-30 at night, to convey weary travellers to all parts of the town! No strings of neat cars or cabs were then ready to be hired. To stump it was your only remedy, let the night be what it would. Believe me, we are living in very convenient times, if we only look back a little. […] The Cheshire ferries are now the most convenient, the cheapest, and pleasantest to use in the kingdom. The fare was reduced to a penny from twopence on the 1st of June, 1848. […] Whether the proposed tunnel or tunnels under the Mersey will depreciate the value of the ferries remains to be seen. It is said by those who have studied the subject that there is sufficient population to keep both over sea and under sea undertakings fully at work and profitable.
	The Queen Elizabeth II The QE2 has visited Liverpool several times, here on a warm summer's evening in 1989. Events like this draw crowds of people nostalgic for the times when the great ocean-going liners regularly left Liverpool for America and more exotic destinations, even though this is a real memory for ever decreasing numbers nowadays.